B |
| BAG OUT | When 2 pieces of fabric are stitched together on the wrong side of the fabric, once stitched turned to the correct side of the fabric. |
| BABY LOCK | Is a small & tight edging stitch; similar to overlock stitch. |
BINDING | A bias cut strip of fabric used to bind seams and edges of garments. |
BLIND HEM | A hem which is invisible either hand sewn or made by a machine with a hemmer attachment. |
BONING | Narrow plastic strips stitched into seams to support bodices. |
BOUND BUTTON HOLE | A buttonhole made with fabric. |
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C |
| CASING | A width of fabric stitched to the garment to enable a cord or tie to be threaded through. |
| CHAIN STITCH | Hand stitched chain made with cotton thread used for belt loops. |
| CIRCULAR FRILLS | A frill which is cut as a circle to give a full and fluid appearance without gathers |
| COLLAR STAND | The band that the collar is attached to, eg mens shirts. |
| COWL NECK | A draped neckline with folds of fabric. |
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D |
| DART | Marked on pattern, used to shape garments over bust and hips etc. |
| DOLMAN SLEEVE | A sleeve design. Very wide at the top without an actual armhole and slimming down to a small opening at the wrist or arm. |
| DRILL HOLES | Marked on pattern to indicate where the stitch line finishes. Often 2cm past the drill hole to leave a soft even finish. |
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E |
| EASE | Distributes fullness of fabric without tucks. |
| EDGE STITCH | A stitch very close to the edge of seam or garment, used to keep piece flat also as a feature. |
| ESTIMATE | The amount of fabric needed for the garment. |
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F |
| FACING | A pattern fabric piece which is usually fused to neaten the cut edges of necks, waists etc |
| FELLED SEAM | A flat seam used on jeans for extra strength |
| FLY | A concealed opening used with zips for pants and skirts also with buttons on shirt and jackets |
| FRENCH SEAM | A seam stitched on the outside first, then turned to the wrong side and stitched again |
| FLAT STITCH | A row of stitching on the correct side of the fabric close to the edge of the seam, this keeps the seam flat |
| FUSE | An interfacing that is ironed on to the fabric to keep shape |
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G |
| GATHERING | Two rows of large stitches sewn along the desired edge and pulled in to required length. |
| GAUNTLET | The tab on the sleeve opening of shirts. |
| GRAIN LINE | A line marked on the pattern to show the direction of the fabric when cutting. |
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H - L |
| HOOK & EYE | A metal hook with a metal eye sewn onto garment as a fastener often at the top of zips. |
| INTERLINE | To add strength to fabrics when needed. |
| JERSEY STITCH | Use an overlocker or safety stitch machine for stretch jersey fabric. |
| KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE | Made by a keyhole machine used for coats. |
| KNIFE PLEAT | Pleats folded in the one direction. |
| LAPEL | The part of the jacket that folds back onto itself and joins the collar. |
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M - N |
| MANDERIN COLLAR | A collar that stands up and encompasses the neck with the opening at the front. |
| MITRED CORNERS | Corners that are cut at right angles and bagged out to make clean edges. |
| NAP | Pile fabrics such as velvet have a nap, smooth one way and rough the other, cut all the pieces in the one direction |
| NOTCH | Markings on pattern which correspond between pattern pieces. |
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P |
| PATTERN HOLES | These are 2cm holes punched into cardboard pattern for the purpose of hanging. |
| PATTERN LAY CHART | An indication of how pattern pieces would be laid onto the fabric to reach the best estimate for cutting the garment |
| PATTERN NOTCHES | Metal tool for clipping out notch marks on pattern pieces. |
| PETER PAN COLLAR | A small collar with rounded edges. |
| PILE | The direction of the loop or yarn of the fabric running down the fabric eg: velvet. |
| PINTUCKS | Rows of fine tucks used as a feature, normally 3MM OR 1/8TH" wide. |
| PIPING | A bias piece of fabric with or without cord stitched between two pieces of fabric. |
| PLACKET | A pattern piece for eg: the tab that is on a shirt. |
| PLEATS | Fabric folded back onto its self which forms pleats. |
| PLUS SIZES | Larger sized patterns for a larger body. |
| PRINCESS SEAM | A design line or seam that runs from the shoulder line down the body giving shape. |
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Q - S |
| QUILTING | A technique of stitching a piece of wadding between two pieces of fabric and top stitching rows |
| RAGLAN SLEEVE | A sleeve design that includes the shoulder with seams running from under the arms up towards the neckline |
| REVER | Also know as the lapel |
| SADDLE STITCH | Stitched with a heavy thread which is often contrasted |
| SELVEDGE | The woven edge on each side of the fabric. Small holes can indicate the selvedge as they often run along it |
| SHEARS | Large scissors used for cutting fabric and paper |
| SHIRRING | Hat elastic wound onto the bobbin firmly with cotton thread through the needle. When stitching fabric it will gather up, known as shirring |
| STA'S | These are vilene pieces that are stitched to noted areas to stop stretching – e.g. neck lines. Once the garment is completed these can be trimmed away |
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T - Z |
| TOP PRESS | To press on top of the seams during the process of sewing the garment |
| TOP STITCH | A feature stitch on top of the seam on the outside of the garment often in a contrast coloured |
| TWIN NEEDLE | Double rows of stitching approximately 5mm apart normally used as a feature |
| UNDER PRESS | Pressing the garment intermittently as you go through the process of making the garment |
| VILENE | A non stick interlining |
| VELCRO | Tape with two sides that attaches to each other |
| YOKE | The section of a garment. For shirts it can be seen at the cross back on the shoulder, and on skirts at the back between the waist and hip |
| ZIG-ZAG | Can be used as a feature or on seams if an overlocker is not available |
| ZIPS | For openings on garments |
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