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B

BAG OUTWhen 2 pieces of fabric are stitched together on the wrong side of the fabric, once stitched turned to the correct side of the fabric. 
BABY LOCKIs a small & tight edging stitch; similar to overlock stitch.

BINDING

A bias cut strip of fabric used to bind seams and edges of garments.

BLIND HEM

A hem which is invisible either hand sewn or made by a machine with a hemmer attachment.

BONING

Narrow plastic strips stitched into seams to support bodices.

BOUND BUTTON HOLE

A buttonhole made with fabric.

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C

CASINGA width of fabric stitched to the garment to enable a cord or tie to be threaded through.
CHAIN STITCHHand stitched chain made with cotton thread used for belt loops.
CIRCULAR FRILLSA frill which is cut as a circle to give a full and fluid appearance without gathers
COLLAR STANDThe band that the collar is attached to, eg mens shirts.
COWL NECKA draped neckline with folds of fabric.
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D

DARTMarked on pattern, used to shape garments over bust and hips etc.
DOLMAN SLEEVEA sleeve design. Very wide at the top without an actual armhole and slimming down to a small opening at the wrist or arm.
DRILL HOLESMarked on pattern to indicate where the stitch line finishes. Often 2cm past the drill hole to leave a soft even finish.
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E

EASEDistributes fullness of fabric without tucks.
EDGE STITCHA stitch very close to the edge of seam or garment, used to keep piece flat also as a feature.
ESTIMATEThe amount of fabric needed for the garment.
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F

FACINGA pattern fabric piece which is usually fused to neaten the cut edges of necks, waists etc
FELLED SEAMA flat seam used on jeans for extra strength
FLYA concealed opening used with zips for pants and skirts also with buttons on shirt and jackets
FRENCH SEAMA seam stitched on the outside first, then turned to the wrong side and stitched again
FLAT STITCHA row of stitching on the correct side of the fabric close to the edge of the seam, this keeps the seam flat 
FUSEAn interfacing that is ironed on to the fabric to keep shape 
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G

GATHERINGTwo rows of large stitches sewn along the desired edge and pulled in to required length.
GAUNTLETThe tab on the sleeve opening of shirts.
GRAIN LINEA line marked on the pattern to show the direction of the fabric when cutting.
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H - L

HOOK & EYE

A metal hook with a metal eye sewn onto garment as a fastener often at the top of zips.

INTERLINE

To add strength to fabrics when needed.

JERSEY STITCHUse an overlocker or safety stitch machine for stretch jersey fabric.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE

Made by a keyhole machine used for coats.

KNIFE PLEAT

Pleats folded in the one direction.

LAPEL

The part of the jacket that folds back onto itself and joins the collar.

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M - N

MANDERIN COLLARA collar that stands up and encompasses the neck with the opening at the front.
MITRED CORNERSCorners that are cut at right angles and bagged out to make clean edges.
NAP

Pile fabrics such as velvet have a nap, smooth one way and rough the other, cut all the pieces in the one direction

NOTCH

Markings on pattern which correspond between pattern pieces.

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P

PATTERN HOLESThese are 2cm holes punched into cardboard pattern for the purpose of hanging.
PATTERN LAY CHART

An indication of how pattern pieces would be laid onto the fabric to reach the best estimate for cutting the garment

PATTERN NOTCHESMetal tool for clipping out notch marks on pattern pieces.
PETER PAN COLLAR

A small collar with rounded edges.

PILEThe direction of the loop or yarn of the fabric running down the fabric eg: velvet.
PINTUCKSRows of fine tucks used as a feature, normally 3MM OR 1/8TH" wide.
PIPINGA bias piece of fabric with or without cord stitched between two pieces of fabric.
PLACKET

A pattern piece for eg: the tab that is on a shirt.

PLEATSFabric folded back onto its self which forms pleats.
PLUS SIZES

Larger sized patterns for a larger body.

PRINCESS SEAMA design line or seam that runs from the shoulder line down the body giving shape.
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Q - S

QUILTINGA technique of stitching a piece of wadding between two pieces of fabric and top stitching rows
RAGLAN SLEEVEA sleeve design that includes the shoulder with seams running from under the arms up towards the neckline
REVERAlso know as the lapel
SADDLE STITCHStitched with a heavy thread which is often contrasted
SELVEDGEThe woven edge on each side of the fabric. Small holes can indicate the selvedge as they often run along it
SHEARSLarge scissors used for cutting fabric and paper
SHIRRINGHat elastic wound onto the bobbin firmly with cotton thread through the needle. When stitching fabric it will gather up, known as shirring
STA'SThese are vilene pieces that are stitched to noted areas to stop stretching – e.g. neck lines. Once the garment is completed these can be trimmed away 
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T - Z

TOP PRESSTo press on top of the seams during the process of sewing the garment 
TOP STITCHA feature stitch on top of the seam on the outside of the garment often in a contrast coloured
TWIN NEEDLEDouble rows of stitching approximately 5mm apart normally used as a feature
UNDER PRESSPressing the garment intermittently as you go through the process of making the garment 
VILENEA non stick interlining 
VELCROTape with two sides that attaches to each other
YOKEThe section of a garment. For shirts it can be seen at the cross back on the shoulder, and on skirts at the back between the waist and hip
ZIG-ZAGCan be used as a feature or on seams if an overlocker is not available
ZIPSFor openings on garments
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